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Guide to San Carlos

 

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Chapter Three: Information for Visitors

Finding Your Way around San Carlos

As visitors approach San Carlos, their eyes are drawn to the high rugged peaks of the “Tetas” which lie at the end of the road into town. This mountain, San Carlos’s most beloved landmark, presides over the whole town. The entrance to San Carlos takes one down the 15 mile scenic highway, lined with flowers and palm trees. To the left of the highway is a stunning view which, in one sweep, takes in desert, ocean, tiny islands, and long stretches of sandy beaches. Soft low mountains painted with lavender shadows surround the whole scene. At sunset, the sky changes to orange, the mountains to pink, and the water to deep vermilion. From this comes the poetic name given by John Steinbeck to the Sea of Cortez, “the vermilion sea.”

How the Mountain Got its Name

Before Europeans and Mexicans settled Sonora, it was home to many Indian tribes. The Yaqui, Seri, and Guaima Indians lived in the area. The Guaima occupied the Guaymas area, hence the city’s name. The Seris occupied northern Sonora from Arizona down to the Tetas and the Yaquis held the land along the Yaqui River, with most of their villages located south of the Tetas as far south as Obregon. Both The Yaqui and the Seri Indians considered the Tetas to be sacred. The Yaquis named it, “Tecalai,” meaning, “Dragon’s Tongue.” The Seris named the mountain, “Stone Mountain.” That name was changed to “Tetas de Kawi” by Spanish speaking settlers. Now it is called,” Tetas de Cabra,” meaning, “goat’s teats” in Spanish.

Main Street and Town Landmarks.

About six miles from the Highway 15 turnoff, the Beltrones Boulevard reaches the heart of the business section of San Carlos, the intersection of Beltrones Boulevard and Loma Del Mar Road.(Del Mar is also labeled Avenida H). Here, there is a mini-civic center in a cluster of buildings which house the Telephone Company , the State Police station, the Post Office , Ana Maria’s Beauty Salon , Hambone’s Insurance Agency , and a few shops. On the same corner are the popular restaurant, Rosa’s Cantina , and the Santa Rosa Meat Market . A sign at this crossroads points the way to a private airstrip (closed), the Verde Gymnasio athletic club, a church, Veterinary Clinic , and Carmelita’s Nursery . The paved Loma de Mar road is the main road to Ranchitos, a rural area where everybody does their own thing. Some keep horses, others cultivate small, but beautiful gardens, others work on their boats or hobbies, and some just take it easy. The houses range from large and beautiful two-story Spanish style constructions topped with Moorish domes to little dwellings that are no more than tin and raw boards.

Photo Courtesy of Todd Photo, Phoenix, AZBeltrones , the main highway, also called the Scenic Highway, was named Beltrones in honor of a former governor. A pleasant paved bicycle path runs parallel to Beltrones for the next few miles, giving an unobstructed view of the ocean.

The Scenic Highway itself is lined with palm trees, bougainvillea, and oleander. It runs for 15 miles along the ocean to the northern edge of San Carlos at Paradiso Resort. The main road goes past small hotels, motels, condominiums, doctors’ offices, trailer parks, restaurants, gift shops, dive shops, grocery stories, laundromats and liquor stores, a bank, a telegraph office, ambulances at the Rescate station, and a gas station (one on each side of the highway).

 

There are several interesting places to visit right in the center of San Carlos. A few are described below. They are within walking (hiking?) distance of the Post Office.

Following the main highway takes you past the San Carlos Country Club and Golf Course, to the point just before the San Carlos Marina where the highway splits into a three-way intersection. The right hand road follows the coast along beaches, housing developments, the San Carlos Plaza Hotel , and Paradiso Resort & Beach Club, all the way to La Manga fishing camp at the end of the highway . The left-hand road goes past the San Carlos Grill , the Catholic Church , and the five-story MarinaTerra Hotel . Taking the road going straight ahead takes you to the San Carlos Marina.

San Carlos Highlights

MarinaTerra Hotel and Condominiums

Five stories high, this beautiful hotel is the second tallest building in San Carlos. It has an indoor restaurant on the main floor and an outdoor restaurant on the embarcadero, the walkway along the marina. On the second floor roof top is a pretty pool for guests and their children.

Embarcadero Restaurant at MarinaTerra Hotel

The attractive restaurant at the MarinaTerra Hotel mentioned above, is situated right on the embarcadero of the San Carlos Marina . Go there near sunset. Stroll the embarcadero, sit at the outdoor tables, have a drink, gaze at the beautiful boats in the marina, and watch the sun set behind the Tetas de Cabra (goats' teats). There is live music and usually an outdoor buffet on Saturday nights.

San Carlos Marina and the San Carlos Yacht Club

After the main highway splits, one road goes left, one goes right, and the center road goes directly to the San Carlos Yacht Club and the San Carlos Marina . The marina office is there and a few t-shirt stores and coffee shops. The Amiga Jewelry store is also in this complex and offers some beautiful, unique jewelry. The Tetas de Cabra Mountain forms the backdrop to the marina itself, creating a beautiful view.

The Caracol

Where the main highway splits, the left hand road passes Tequila’s Restaurant Bar, and some retail shops, and terminates at the Superfrutería. From the Frutería, turn left, and a flower lined brick road takes you to the Shangri La Cove, El Club de Playa (the Beach Club), and a few luxury homes in the Playa Pelícanos housing development. To the right a cobblestone road winds up into the hills overlooking the San Carlos Marina. Perched on the top are some very attractive houses, some in the million dollar range. People call this residential area the Caracol.

The Beach Club (El Club de Playa)

El Club de Playa is located near the Frutería grocery store. If you turn right at the Frutería, the road takes you up the hill to the Caracol. Turn left and go along the flower lined brick walkway, and you will reach the Beach Club. The newly remodeled El Club de Playa serves drinks and rents equipment. This is a real show place. Don’t miss it. The swimming pool and facilities at El Club is owned by MarinaTerra Hotel, but, in accordance with Mexican law, the beach itself is open to the public. The beach opens onto a protected cove with a rocky point extending into shallow water on the north end. This cove is called Shangri-La or even, Pirates’ Cove. There is very good snorkeling in this area, and a good place for kayaking.

Galleria Belles Artes Galleria

(Closed in summer) The gallery is owned by well recognized artist William Rutherford and his charming wife, Pilar, and has a good selection of paintings by Mexican artists and sculpture by Rutherford and various Mexican artists. The gallery hosts small concerts from time to time. Closed from June to October.

Catholic Church of San Carlos

At the church on the small central plaza on Beltrones Highway, mass is held every Sunday morning at 11:00 in Spanish and in English on Saturday afternoon at 4:00. It is always opens to visitors. Bazaars and community events are sometimes held on the plaza. Next door is a grocery store for picnic needs, a good taco stand, and the Corona Beer Store (deposito) where locals hang out on Sundays, and weekend partiers stock up. No alcohol is sold on Sunday afternoon or evening.

San Carlos Country Club

The San Carlos Country Club contains an 18-hole golf course, a swimming pool for residents and a snack bar. The residential areas within the country club extend over a huge area, covering most of the north side of the main road as far north as the Ranchitos rural sector. In the Country Club area there are some very beautiful homes and gardens, both new and old. A lot of birds are attracted to the well-watered golf course and to the scrub desert hills surrounding it.

Club Deportivo

Located about ¼ mile beyond Los Jitos Hotel, inside the Country Club gates, this big building is not much to look at, but a lot of enjoyable activities go on inside. It opens in November for regularly scheduled public events including once a month Friday night buffet diners, bingo, line dancing classes, arts and crafts lessons, and so forth. Annual membership fee is $10.00 or $100.00 for a lifetime membership. Now that’s a bargain!

Taking Care of Business

Bank Hours

The local Banamex is open Monday-Friday from 9 to 3. A branch bank inside Ley’s Supermarket in Guaymas is open every day (except Sunday) until late afternoon. All banks close for national holidays. For information about banking and money exchange see Chapter 1.

Post Office Hours and Holidays

The post office is open Monday - Friday from 9 to 2. It is closed on bank holidays and on Postman’s Day November 12. Don’t forget that you must use Mexican stamps to mail a letter from Mexico!

You can send a letter from the Post Office or from any of 6 or 7 red mailboxes along the main boulevard in San Carlos. Mail to the states takes about three weeks. If you mail a postcard home, you may get there before it does. Mail from the states takes from two to six weeks to reach you in Mexico. The post office in San Carlos is open from 9:00 to 2:00. They rent service mailboxes, sell money orders, and stamps. There is no place to buy United States postage.

Mail Drop

Americans heading home often will take your letters (with USA stamps) and mail them when they get to the States. Rosa’s Cantina and the Marina office have a mail drop box, and travelers headed north will obligingly take the mail deposited there to the states and mail it for you (although once in a while they are too relaxed from their vacation to do it right away!).

Packages

Packages mailed from the states don’t always arrive here. Packages sent to the USA take at least three weeks to arrive. If you send a package, do not tape the box. There are limits on the size and contents, and postage is rather high. Mexican post offices will not insure packages. A more reliable and faster way to send or receive packages is by DHL or Federal Express. When you receive a package from the USA or Canada, it will be inspected by customs and taxed. There is usually no tax on books sent in book mailers, but books are taxed if they come in boxes.

National Holidays:

January 1 New Year’s Day

March 21 Benito Juarez’ Birthday

May 1  Labor Day

May 5 Cinco de Mayo (Battle of Puebla)

September 16 Independence Day

October 12 Diaz de la Raza (Columbus Day)

November 20 Mexican Revolution Day

December 25 Christmas Day

Telephoning in Mexico

Making a Long Distance Call

To call the USA from Mexico , dial 001 + Area Code + Phone Number

When calling the USA from a public phone, dial 09 first

Collect calls to the USA: 090 + Area Code + Number

To call 800 numbers (USA), dial 01 - 880 instead of 1-800. In Mexico, there is a charge for 800 calls to the United States.

Long distance calls made from a private number cost about 75 cents a minute during business hours, and approximately 50 cents a minute evenings (after 7:00) and weekends until Sunday, 6:00 PM.

Check out Skype.com on your computer – it´s cheap!!

Long Distance Telephone Calls FROM the USA

It is cheaper to call San Carlos from the US than it is to call the US from San Carlos. TIP: Buy a phone card for your friends or family and have them call you to save on your long distance bill.

Calling within Mexico

For direct calls within Mexico, dial 01 + Area Code + Phone Number

In Sonora, the telephone numbers now carry the prefix 622.

Cell Phones .

If you wish to use your cell phone, make arrangements at the Movitel, Telcel, Nextel and Nortel cell phone companies in Guaymas. To dial a cell phone, dial 044 + Area Code + # .

Emergency Calls

In case of emergencies at sea or on land, call Rescate de San Carlos , a well-organized, well trained bilingual rescue organization.

Rescate 226-0911 or 226-0101

Rescate CB channels No.9, VHF 16 & 22

San Carlos Fire Department 227-0911

San Carlos Police 226-1400 or 226-0004 Guaymas Red Cross 224-0876

Guaymas Tourism Office 222-5667

Rescate Telephone Directory

The Guaymas-San Carlos telephone book does not give a complete and accurate listing of all the telephone numbers of individuals and businesses in San Carlos. An up-to-date directory (including e-mail addresses) is the Rescate San Carlos Phone Book available at the Rescate Building and at a number of local businesses for only $5.00.

Online Telephone Directory

A San Carlos phone directory is available online at the San Carlos Sonora Mexico web site.

Local Telephone Calls

Local calls made from a private number cost about 15 cents per call. Calls made from a public phone, using a phone card, are about 50-75 cents a minute. Calls placed by a hotel operator are much more expensive. Ladatel Phone cards can be purchased at the bank.

Telmex, the Mexican telephone company will install a phone in your home within two or three days of your request. Basic service entitles you to 100 free local calls. Additional calls are about 15 cents each. Long distance calls to the United States are billed at approximately 75 cents a minute during business hours or 50 cents a minute evenings and weekends.

Internet Service

Sign up for internet service at the Telmex office . The charges for this service will appear on your phone bill. Each time you access the internet, you are charged for one local call. High speed connection is a little more expensive, but it has real advantages: you can use your computer and your phone at the same time, and internet is much faster. If you do not have a phone, you can access the internet at several local cafes or businesses including Evie’s Simply Coffee, Gary’s Internet Service, Barracuda Bob’s, Marina Cantina and CSI: Computer Services International across from the Hotel MarinaTerra . CSI installs internet services and provides a variety of services to computer users.

Be sure to check out Skype on your computer for computer to phone access. It is inexpensive and the voices come through very clear, even from Europe.

Accommodations

If you are looking for lodgings in San Carlos, either for a weekend or for the rest of your life, you have a lot to choose from. San Carlos has approximately 400 rooms in the local hotels and motels, about 150 condominiums and kitchenette apartments and close to 300 trailer spaces for rent. A good choice for the budget minded who also want a well kept, clean motel with a swimming pool is the Motel Creston near the center of town.

Condos and kitchenette apartments run around $90- $150 a night. The cost is somewhat less if you pay by the week. RV parks charge about $30 per night for hook-ups. RV’s arriving in caravans receive special rates.

Standard hotel rooms average $60 to $90 a night. Prices at the 4-star major hotels and beach resorts run from $90 to $225: This includes the San Carlos Plaza Hotel and MarinaTerra Hotel . At the major hotels, you can get better prices if you go with a tour group or by bus. Some resorts offer packages which include bus fare from Tucson.

Hotel prices in San Carlos are low by American standards, though high when compared with many other towns in Mexico. Cheaper rooms and trailer spaces are available in the nearby city of Guaymas. There, trailer spaces cost just $12 a night and hotel and motel rooms run about $15- 20 a night. There are three nice motels on the highway between San Carlos and Guaymas: the old reliable Flamingo Motel where American tourists have stayed for years, Casa Blanca Motel, and the new Moteles Santa Rita . A nice quiet, budget priced, trailer park is located at the historic La Playa Cortez Hotel in Miramar, just south of San Carlos.

All San Carlos accommodations are on or close to the beach (“Ocean View”). There is such a variety that there is something sure to please everyone. If you don’t see something you like that fits your budget, you can always pitch a tent on the beach. Most of the year it is easy to get the room of your choice, but during Semana Santa (Easter Week,), Memorial Day weekend, 4 th of July weekend, and some of the three-day Mexican or American holidays, you need to make a reservation a few weeks in advance. For more information and phone numbers, go to the San Carlos website for hotel reservations or First Choice Property for rental properties.

Room Reservations via the Internet

Rooms at the larger hotels and condominiums can be made over the internet at

www.sancarlosmexico.com

Hotels, Motels, and Condos in San Carlos

(Check for current prices)

Name: San Carlos Plaza Hotel Resort & Convention Center
Swimming pool, tennis, restaurants, bar, beach
Location:  Playa Algodones, San Carlos
Phone:  1-800-840-1252
Rating:  5 Stars

Name: MarinaTerra Hotel
Location: Marina Sector, San Carlos
Swimming pool, restaurant
Phone: 011-52-622-226-1021
Rating:  5 Stars

Name: Best Western Hacienda Tetakawi
Swimming pool, restaurant, bar
Location:  Km 9, Blvd Beltrones, San Carlos
Phone: 1-800-528-1234
Rating:  4 Stars

Name: Los Jitos Hotel & Spa
Location:  Km 11, Blvd Beltrones San Carlos
Phone: 1-888-790-0366
Rating:  4 Stars

Name:  Hotel Fiesta San Carlos
Restaurant, bar, palapa bar, swimming pool, beach
no phones or television in rooms
Location:  Km 8.5, Blvd Beltrones, San Carlos
Phone: 011-52-622-226-1318
Rating: 3 Stars

Name: Motel Creston
Swimming pool
Location:  Km 10, Blvd Beltrones, San Carlos
Phone: 011-52-622-226-0020
Rating:  3 Stars

Name: Vista del Mar Apartments
Location: Calle Almejas
Phone: 011-52-622-226-1800
Toll Free: 1-800-374-9753

Name: Pilar Condominios
Swimming pool, restaurant, beach
Location: Beltrones Highway

Name: Club Dorado Apartments
Swimming pool, rocky beach
Location: Calle Almejas
Phone: 011-52-622-226-0307

Name: Posada del Desierto Apartments
Phone & Fax: 011-52-622-226-0467

RV Parks (ask about summer rates)

Name: El Mirador RV Park
A beautiful park near the ocean with a swimming pool, restaurant, and laundry
Location:  Los Algodones, San Carlos
Phone: 011-52-622-227-0213

Name: Totonaka RV Park & Motel
Swimming pool
Location:  Km 8, Blvd Beltrones, San Carlos
Phone: 011-52-622-226-0323 or 0481

Beach Resorts

Name: Paradiso Resort and Beach Club (formerly Club Med)
62 acre site on the beach
Tennis, riding, restaurant, beach, tennis, golf
Location: Playa Algodones, San Carlos
Phone: 1-866-MEX-4-FUN

http://www.sancarlosmexico.com/hotels.html
Rating: 4 stars

Name: Premiere Vacation Club
31 units with private patio overlooking pool and beach
Location: Playa Algodones, San Carlos
Phone: 1-877-695-4161
In Mexico: 622-227-0377
http://www.sancarlosmexico.com/ilx.html
Rating:  4 Stars

House and Apartment Rentals

Apartment rentals for two weeks or longer are usually available, but there are few houses for rent. If you plan to stay in San Carlos for a month or more, check the internet at First Choice Property Management. Some visitors who return year after year make their arrangements a year in advance. They get their first choice and a better price.

Restaurants

Guaymas-San Carlos are famous for two things: Sonoran beef and Guaymas shrimp . These are your best bets for dining out or preparing at home. Advice: don’t expect the fish to be really fresh and well prepared at restaurants that do not specialize in seafood.

The restaurants that specialize in seafood (Mariscos) buy fresh fish and shrimp every day. They are the best places to eat fish, shrimp and lobster . There is one exception: El Oasis Restaurant does not specialize in seafood, but their shrimp are just about the best we have eaten. The Oasis chef likes to dress up the shrimp in coconut coating or Tempura batter, etc. It is certainly the prettiest restaurant in town. El Oasis is located in the El Mirador RV Park.

Best Steaks

El Oeste Steak House Probably the best meal you will ever have in San Carlos or Guaymas is the Chateaubriand steak for two at the El Oeste in the Armida Hotel .

In addition to the El Oeste, which has a separate entrance from the side street, the Armida has a "family style" restaurant inside the hotel which you reach by entering from Calle Serdan and going through the lobby. They have a good salad bar and homemade soup. The entrees at El Oeste are primarily steak, but other items are available from the menu of the main restaurant inside the hotel. My favorite is the steak tampiqueno ordered from the menu of the main restaurant. The main restaurant has good food too, but lacks the atmosphere and attentive service of the steak house. The Armida Hotel is located in downtown Guaymas on Calle Serdan.

Best Seafood

Los Arbolitos is the number 1 choice for sea food restaurants. They also have an alternative menu of meat dishes. It is located on the east side of the highway to Guaymas, a short distance from the second stoplight. Look for a large, thatched roof building (La Cobacha #20); Los Arbolitos is just next door.

This is where Mexican families take Mom to lunch on Saturday and Sunday, so you know it’s got to be good. A well-shaded playground area keeps the kids entertained. The waiters are well trained, most speak English, and the bar tender knows his business. This restaurant is clean, clean, and clean. For meat lovers there is a separate menu. They have an amazing variety of sea food dishes ranging from octopus cocktails to fancy shrimp and fish platters. Try the Fish Arbolitos Style. Los Arbolitos has excellent shrimp cocktails in a tasty soupy juice served in a huge goblet. In Mexico, shrimp cocktails are served in their own juices, not with cocktail sauce. After the first surprise, you will probably like it.

Los Arbolitos has recently opened a second restaurant in San Carlos next to the Totonaka RV Park on Beltrones Blvd. However, they have a restricted menu compared to their Guaymas location.

Los Barcos in Guaymas, on the Malecon, runs a close second to Arbolito s and has the advantage of a great view of the boats (barcos) in Guaymas Harbor. It is located at Malecon Malpice and 22nd Street. They specialize in seafood, but steaks etc. are also very good. A professional staff serves you in the old Mexico tradition. Try Los Barcos for rich, delicious seafood soups, fresh fish, and shrimp. Their best dish is “Fish Los Barcos Style.”

La Cobacha #1 This restaurant, the original La Cobacha, is not for everyone. It is kind of a truck drivers’ stop with no attempt at fancy decor. However it is clean and pleasant under a thatched roof. The music comes from an old style juke box. The waitresses are casual. They do not serve soup, salad, vegetables, bread or dessert. So why are we recommending it? Because they serve one of the best fish dishes in this area, Pargo en Chicharon , that is to say, a whole pargo (like red snapper) flash fried in a crispy coating made of pork cracklings. Also try the shrimp prepared the same way, “camaron en chicharon”. Their crab tacos are unbelievably delicious and CHEAP! This is a popular stop for Mexican truck drivers during the week and Mexican families on weekends. This restaurant is 3 miles south of Empalme on Highway 15 at Kilometer marker 103, a trip of about 22 miles from San Carlos.

Another good restaurant for seafood is El Bronco . See below.

Best Mexican Food

Restaurants

Rosa’s Cantina serves a good local cuisine, clean, inexpensive, reliable. Excellent tortilla soup, salsa, roast pork or chicken, pork chops, and sandwiches. Service is pleasant but slow. Closed Wednesdays during the summer.

The Buffet This is the place to go if you have a hearty appetite and like genuine Mexican home cooking. The food is good and incredibly cheap. Look for this little hole in the wall place in downtown Guaymas next to the appliance store on Serdan and 20 th Street. It doesn’t look look like much on the outside, and it is a bit dark and does not seem too inviting at first. But don’t hold back. Once you are inside you will find friendly waiters, a clean kitchen, and plentiful family-style Mexican food at the serve-yourself buffet. The “all-you-can-eat meal” includes soup, salad, rice, beans, ribs, stew, and fruit.

Taco Stands

For a quick lunch there are several reliable taco stands. Each has its own specialty and they serve from late morning until they run out of food around 1:30. Take your pick of these:

Taco Stand by the Frutería Grocery is popular for breakfast tacos, and hot cocoa. Open early and closed by 11:00 AM

Corona Beer Store Taco Stand at the Church Plaza next to the beer store makes excellent Tacos de Biria, Tacos de Barbacoa, and Deshebrada. (closed Wednesdays)

Carne Asada Taco place in Ma Rosa Center (not JJ’s, but in same center next to the bakery.) Good carne asada (grilled beef strips).

Most Kid Friendly

Jax Snax serves things kids like: hamburgers, pizza, milkshakes and sundaes. There's a playground on the back patio.

Tequilla’s Restaurant Bar waiters are really nice to kids, and the kids love the cheeseburgers, fish tacos, and fries.

MacDonald’s in Guaymas has the usual indoor playground.

Popular Hang-Outs

Froggy’s The large palapa on the main street is the current favorite for Happy Hour which means ice cold beer for $1 and good cheap eats from the grill. Starting around 5:00, it’s crowded with Americans from 40 to 90 years old. Local guys like it too. TV, pool table, pretty waitresses, good quesadillas and hamburgers. Watch out for deadly Margaritas.

Tequila’s Restaurant Bar near the Marina is a very popular restaurant where people like to meet to have fun. The food is good, though not gourmet. I like their breakfasts, the carne asada plate, and fish tacos. Mornings attract the card players, club groups, and the fishing-boating-vacationing folks from the San Carlos Marina. Nightime from 9:00 to 2:00 AM, Thursday-Saturday the place throbs with awful, loud but enthusiastic rock band music and laid-back diners, drinkers and TV watchers.

Banana’s is a similar place but attracts a quieter group of old-timers and beach bums. Live music in the evenings.

Marina Cantina & Deli is in the Marina Building at Marina San Carlos. They have soups, salads, deli sandwiches, daily specials and more. Lots of TVs tuned to major college and pro sports and a covered outside patio overlooking the marina.