First Choice RealtyGuide to San Carlos
Sight Seeing in Guaymas
Historical Guaymas
Visitors to San Carlos (also called Nuevo Guaymas) will probably enjoy a visit to Guaymas itself, 14 miles from San Carlos on Highway 15. It is an interesting city with an exciting past, rich with stories of priests, pirates, soldiers, villains, and heroes. During its turbulent history, more than one country has tried to grab the treasures of the gold, silver and copper mines of Sonora and to gain control of the seaport. The beautiful seaport is described perfectly in one of the first tourist guides to Mexico, John Wilhelm's Guide to Mexico, 1956.
Fifty years ago, this was Guaymas as seen through Wilhem’s eyes: “Guaymas has one of the most beautiful harbors in the world, with the small village clutched in an encircling ring of mountains. Some mornings the water is mirror smooth and reflects with unbelievable reality the ships in the harbor. The evening sunsets display myriad hues which impart a particular glow and charm to the bay.”
The “small village" has grown to 104,100 (2001 census report). It is still an important center for commercial fishing and the shrimp industry. The harbor is filled with freighters and tankers filled with oil, and grains, and a picturesque fleet of shrimp and sardine boats.
As the fish and shrimp are depleted in the Sea of Cortez, and competition from other sources increases, Guaymas, which is almost entirely dependent on this single industry, is suffering. Nevertheless, the people are lively and cheerful and very hospitable to foreign tourists. They are proud of their history of brave men and women, famous men, including three Presidents of Mexico. *This information is quoted from John Wilhelm’s Guide to Mexico , 1956. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company.
Since the above was written about the City of Guaymas we have seen the introduction of “maquiladores”. These are assembly plants that have located in this area by foreign companies and employ local workers. In addition, with the new housing developments in San Carlos, the required work force of construction workers has increased dramatically and has become a draw for Central Americans to re-locate to this area.
There are great plans for the harbor area in Guaymas to include anchorage for cruise ships and also provision to unload container ships arriving from the Orient. The first cruise ship in the Holland-America line will dock in Guaymas in October, 2008.
Brief History of Guaymas
The visitor to Guaymas today will appreciate and understand the city a little better by knowing something of it past, its heroes, its courage and its pride.
Spanish Exploration for Gold and Silver
In 1521, Cortez conquered the Aztec City of Tenochitlan (Mexico City), and the Spanish ruled Mexico for the next 300 years. Spanish explorers spread across Mexico to exploit the riches of the country. They were soon followed by missionaries preaching Christianity to the Indians. By 1535 the first Spanish explorers came to Guaymas. The area was originally inhabited by Guaimas and Yaqui Indians, and the Spanish named it after the Guaimas tribe. In 1567, Francisco de Ibarra’s expedition discovered the mineral resources of Sonora. Spanish gold seekers came, eager to establish settlements.
The Spanish Village of San Jose de Guaymas
(This village was once called San Jose de la Laguna, also San Jose de Pima)
Despite the presence of one of the best natural harbors in the Pacific, the Guaymas harbor remained uninhabited for a long time because of its inhospitable environment. It was surrounded on all sides by ‘rocks, cactus, and brush. The rocky hills reflected the midday heat, making Guaymas a red hot furnace in the summer. Instead of settling there, a village was built on one of the interior estuaries where a stream of water flowed nearby. The village was founded in 1701. Spaniard Juan Maria Salvatierra , the founder, called it San Jose de la Laguna . The name was later changed to San Jose de Guaymas.
Jesuit Missionaries
In 1863, Jesuit missionaries from Baja California were sent to the Yaqui valley to establish a colony, but their first attempt failed. In 1687 Father Kino was sent to the High Pimeria (northern Sonora and southern Arizona) to establish a base for supplying the missions in California, and Father Adamo Gil was assigned to Guaymas. Father Juan Maria Salvatierra founded the city of Guaymas in 1704. Later Father Picolo was sent to the nearby village of San Jose de Guaymas. Kino’s base at that time was in the Sonoran town of Dolores. From the mission there, the Mission of Nuestra Senora de Dolores , Kino established a number of missions in northern Sonora. Traveling on horseback from his base at Dolores, Kino arrived in San Jose de Guaymas in 1704. There, Pima Indians worked for the mission, raising cattle for beef to supply other missions. Old maps of mission locations call this mission San Jose de Pima. Padre Kino became a famous and well loved man who established 18 missions in the Altar area, as well as other missions in present day Arizona. After the establishment of the missions, a period of cooperation between the indigenous people and the European settlers began.
This historical information is quoted from:
Salas, Miguel Tinker (1997). In the Shadow of the Eagles: Sonora , and the Transformation of the Border during the Porfiriato . Berkeley: University of California Press. and Dr. Felipe de J. Valenzuela M.,(2002 ) Kino y Su Influencia en Guaymas . also, Wilhelm, John (1956 ). John Wilhelm’s Guide to Mexico . New York: McGraw-Hill Book Co.
American Occupation of Guaymas
In 1847, during the Mexican-American war, Guaymas was attacked by USA naval forces and was occupied until the war ended in 1848. During America’s Indian Wars and the Civil War in the USA, Guaymas served as a supply point. Supplies were shipped into Guaymas from San Francisco then transported by wagon train into the Arizona territory.
Indian Uprisings
For over 100 years, the Spanish settlements were never safe from attack by Indians, chiefly the Apaches and the Yaquis. Even after the establishment of the missions, Indian uprisings continued to threaten the settlers up until the last uprising of Yaqui and Mayo Indians in 1886. Gradually, the Spanish and French settlers became dependent on the Yaqui Indians for labor and to supply produce from their farms.
Mexican Revolution in 1910
Mexico was dominated by Spain for 300 years until the administration was overthrown by Mexican revolutionaries. Mexico achieved independence in 1821, but the invasion of Mexico by foreign powers did not end. The governance of Mexico was in chaos. Between 1822 and 1855 Mexico had 25 presidents. The Mexican-American War began in 1847. The United States army invaded Mexico and took over a huge area of northern Mexico, more than half of the country.
French Intervention
At the time when America was occupied with civil war, the French invaded Mexico. French soldiers defeated the Mexican army, occupied the whole country and drove President Juarez from Mexico. Napoleon III set up Emperor Maximillian as ruler of Mexico. In 1854 Maximilian accepted the throne of Mexico. Maximillian’s forces occupied Guaymas in 1864 . The French were eventually overthrown and Maximillian was executed. In 1888, Guaymas held its first Carnaval, commemorating triumph over French invaders. Carnaval has been celebrated every year in Guaymas since then. The churches and civic buildings erected in the late 1890’s are still in use today.
Guaymas is Attacked by Pirates
In 1854 a boat load of French and other European pirates came from San Francisco to attack the military garrison at Guaymas. General Yanez, defender of the port of Guaymas, forewarned of the impending attack, defeated the pirates, and executed their leader. The "13 de Julio" battle in 1854 against the Frech pirates is today a holiday for Guaymas, and we on this date a Cultural Festival is held named "Fiestas del Mar Bermejo" with lots of high quality performances at Plaza los tres Presidentes ending with a fireworks naval battle.
Mexican Revolution of 1910
After the French were driven from the country, Porfirio Diaz installed himself as the new president-dictator. Civil unrest and rumors of revolution exploded into the Mexican Revolution of 1910. The soldiers of Sonora, both men and women, played a major role in starting the revolution. The port of Guaymas was occupied by both Mexican Federal troops and Revolutionary troops between 1913 and 1914 during the Siege of Guaymas .The Mexican civil war officially ended in 1920. Finally after 400 years of cruel domination and exploitation, the Mexican Revolution succeeded in returning Mexico to the Mexican people.
Present Day Guaymas
The city of Guaymas is filled with reminders of its colonial past and its post-revolutionary civic pride.
Statues
Favorite places for photography are the historic buildings and statues on Serdan Street, the view of the harbor from the Malecón at sunset, the Church of San Fernando in the city park, the Plaza of the Three Presidents , and the cemetery on the Day of the Dead.
Another often photographed statue is the Fisherman of Guaymas on the malecón. The platform is inscribed with the words to the sad song, “Barco de Guaymas” (Boat of Guaymas). The words tell us that when a fisherman dies, he goes to the great beyond in the boat of Guaymas.
Historic Buildings
On Avenida Serdan, the main street of Guaymas, the visitor can view historic buildings, examples of French Colonial architecture with their distinctive heavy domes : Banco de México, the Municipal Palace, and the Templo del Sagrado Corazón and the Church of San Fernando , and on a side street, the Carcel Municipal .
San Fernando Cathedral in Guaymas in the City Park
The Carcel Municipal (city jail) is a very old interesting building built at the end of the 19th century and was still in use until just a year or two ago. Its castle-like towers and imposing stone walls and looks like a dungeon in a Hollywood fantasy, but the misery of the prisoners inside was vey real. (have spoken to a few who spent some unhappy nights there as a result of bar fights.)
The Guaymas Museum
The old carcel is now being developed as a museum. So far, the exhibits are rather sparse. The museum is located on Ave. Alfonso Iberri and Calle 25. Open Mon.-Fri. from 10 to 1 and 4-7 weekdays and Sunday from 10 to 2. The Templo de Corazon Sagrado is behind the museum.
Guaymas & Miramar in the ‘70’s
David E. Stuart has written a fascinating book about his experiences as a young man , Guaymas Chronicles (2003). In the 1970s Miramar, on the outskirts of Guaymas, was popular place for tourists. Ships docking in the port of Guaymas brought sailors from all over the world. In those days, Guaymas was a red hot jumping place. You may be able to buy a copy of Guaymas Chronicles at the Sagitario gift shop in San Carlos or order it from the University of New Mexico Press.Very interesting and full of old photos of the area.
Restaurants
Guaymas has a lot of taco stands, bars, and some rough looking discos. But there are also some good restaurants where you can enjoy some memorable meals. Seafood and steak are the specialties. The best steak house around is the El Oeste Steak House at the Armida Hotel in Guaymas.
There are several excellent sea food restaurants in the San Carlos-Guaymas area. My favorites are Los Arbolitos on the highway from San Carlos to Guaymas and Los Barcos in Guaymas on the Malecón. From Los Barcos you get a great view of the Guaymas sea port. Try to time your visit for sunset. For a quick, cheap and generous meal, try the 1001 Tortas on Serdan for their daily luncheon special, the “Comida Corrida.” Some people swear by McDonalds in Guaymas (better than in the USA). Try the Doug Out Restaurant on Blvd. Garcia Lopez for crab tostidos – yummy!!!
Shopping
Not many years ago, Guaymas, was a favorite destination of honeymooners and tourists. At that time there were several very good restaurants and lots of interesting little gift shops. Time has changed that. Big stores like Ley’s have meant the end of the small shop keeper, and the poverty of the town has discouraged the upkeep of public streets and plazas. Nevertheless, Guaymas is good for a quick shopping trip, and for the inveterate tourist, Guaymas is an interesting town and worth a half day excursion to see the monuments, historic buildings, and the Mercado.
Particularly good occasions for visiting Guaymas are during Carnaval, the Day of the Dead, and the Christmas season. Christmas Eve mass at the Church of San Fernando is a colorful celebration with a mariachi choir. The Mercado (the common market) in Guaymas sells piñatas for Christmas parties and a crazy variety of sugar candies to fill them with, as well as hand made wooden toys. One block from the Mercado there is a store called Jugetes y Mas (Toys and More) full of Christmas decorations, artificial flowers, talking dolls, music boxes, and little trinkets for Christmas.
Carnaval, the Mardi Gras Celebration in Guaymas
Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday) is celebrated in the United States on the Tuesday preceding Ash Wednesday. In Guaymas, Carnaval is a similar week-long celebration during the days preceding Ash Wednesday. Carnaval is the occasion for the crowning of queens, fiestas, parades and other activities before Lent. There are no Carnaval events in San Carlos, so go into Guaymas where it all happens. Guaymas celebrates!
Carnaval activities begin nine days prior to Ash Wednesday The first week is given over to free cultural programs: song, dance, poetry, speeches, folkloric dances, mariachi, and classical guitar, held in the Civic Auditorium , the Casa de la Cultura in Guaymas or in outdoor plazas.
The second week is filled with parades, fireworks, carnival rides, and public dances. It all gets going with the main event, the first big parade on Saturday at 4:00, down Blvd. Sanchez to Avenida Serdan, ending at Calle 6. After the parade, there is a carnival with rides for kids and public dances with popular local bands. Food stands are everywhere as well as balloon sellers and booths with souvenirs, jewelry, and stuff. Fireworks shoot over the bay, and even the fishermen’s pangas are decorated to get into the spirit of the Carnaval. The most important event of Carnaval is the first big parade Sat at 4:00 PM. Be there early for a good seat (or sit on the curb or bring your own folding chair. The people on the floats toss out jewels, confetti, little gifts and the Corona and Tecate girls may even toss you a free can of beer.
Easter in Mexico (Pascua)
In Sonora, pre-Lenten observances begin a week or two before Lent. During the 40 days of penitence of Lent, devout Indians demonstrate their religious faith by walking from their native villages south of here all the way to the church. I should not really say walk, because they dance their way. The men chosen for this task are called faraseos. They come in twos and threes, dressed in deerskins, with a deer mask and headdress, jingling gourd or cocoon rattles attached to their ankles and beating simple wooden drums. They travel without money, without food or water, depending only on the coins they collect along the way. On their journey from the Yaqui villages to Hermosillo, they pass through the town of San Carlos, and if you are lucky, they may come to your house and dance in the street.
In Mexico, the celebration of the resurrection of Christ (Americans call it Easter) is called Pascua , and it continues for a week. The dancers shown here came to our house and stopped to sing, dance and have some refreshment.